Cathy Nesbitt of Cathy's Crawly Composters demonstrates how to set-up, maintain and harvest a worm composting bin. Cathy also shows how much and what to feed. This is an instructional video...
Showing posts with label worm composting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label worm composting. Show all posts
Friday, July 11, 2014
Monday, April 5, 2010
Getting Started on a Worm Farm
Getting started on a worm farm is not that complicated, all you need is a bit of passion for recycling and some trivia about worms.
Here's some worm trivia that could help motivate and inspire you with your worm farm venture.
How much do worms eat? Well, mature worms can eat as much as their own body weight every day.
For those that are just starting out in worm farming and would like to know how to make their worms eat more and be more productive.
Simply shred, mash or blend food scraps which will make it more digestible and easy to consume by the worms.
Also maintain worm bed temperature at around 23-25 degrees celsius, since it is at these temperatures that worms feed better.
Lastly, avoid acidic foods, since it messes up the worms’ digestive system.
Here are some things you may also want to avoid feeding your worms: manure, onions, citrus fruits or peelings, garlic, garden waste sprayed with insecticides, dairy products like milk and cheese or meat.
Here are some more frequently asked questions that can help.
Is it ok to water the worm bed regularly? Watering the farm will enhance the production of liquid fertilizer, but make sure not to pour too much water into it or it could drown the worms.
Take note that food wastes are about 80% water, which is released as the worms break them down.
If water is poured over the system every couple of weeks, be sure to just add water only as much as getting the worm bed damp and cool, you will have a constant supply of liquid fertilizer.
Will I be able to harvest more worms? The answer is no, worms regulate themselves with any given or available space and the amount of food administered to them.
Is it normal for these worms to gather on the lid of the farm when it is raining? Yes, since it's a normal response for these worms to react this way during the rainy season to avoid getting drowned. Simply move the worm farm boxes over to an area where it does not get exposed to too much rain and replace the worms back to the farm bedding.
Why are worms not moving to the top level of the tray? This may be so because you may have added new food before the worms have consumed the previous feeding batch.
Worms have the instinct to stay with leftover food and will not search for a new food source until it consumes what was left previously.
Before you add new trays, stop feeding the worms for at least five days to ensure all existing food has been consumed.
Also make sure that the level of castings in the working tray needs to be high enough for the worms to pass easily up to the next tray.
Can worms endure high temperatures? Worms can tolerate a temperature range between 10-30 degrees Celsius.
If temperatures get hotter than its tolerable levels, move the farm into a shady, cool area where it could regulate the moisture and humidity of the worm boxes.
In cold temperatures, make sure to cover the box with old garments or carpets, blankets and wool shavings to sustain the warm temperature.
It is also best advised to feed the worms at least a quarter more than it should, since more food digested by the worms allow for more heat being generated in their bodies.
So take heed of these ideas and you can be on your way to getting started on a worm farm with confidence.
Here's some worm trivia that could help motivate and inspire you with your worm farm venture.
How much do worms eat? Well, mature worms can eat as much as their own body weight every day.
For those that are just starting out in worm farming and would like to know how to make their worms eat more and be more productive.
Simply shred, mash or blend food scraps which will make it more digestible and easy to consume by the worms.
Also maintain worm bed temperature at around 23-25 degrees celsius, since it is at these temperatures that worms feed better.
Lastly, avoid acidic foods, since it messes up the worms’ digestive system.
Here are some things you may also want to avoid feeding your worms: manure, onions, citrus fruits or peelings, garlic, garden waste sprayed with insecticides, dairy products like milk and cheese or meat.
Here are some more frequently asked questions that can help.
Is it ok to water the worm bed regularly? Watering the farm will enhance the production of liquid fertilizer, but make sure not to pour too much water into it or it could drown the worms.
Take note that food wastes are about 80% water, which is released as the worms break them down.
If water is poured over the system every couple of weeks, be sure to just add water only as much as getting the worm bed damp and cool, you will have a constant supply of liquid fertilizer.
Will I be able to harvest more worms? The answer is no, worms regulate themselves with any given or available space and the amount of food administered to them.
Is it normal for these worms to gather on the lid of the farm when it is raining? Yes, since it's a normal response for these worms to react this way during the rainy season to avoid getting drowned. Simply move the worm farm boxes over to an area where it does not get exposed to too much rain and replace the worms back to the farm bedding.
Why are worms not moving to the top level of the tray? This may be so because you may have added new food before the worms have consumed the previous feeding batch.
Worms have the instinct to stay with leftover food and will not search for a new food source until it consumes what was left previously.
Before you add new trays, stop feeding the worms for at least five days to ensure all existing food has been consumed.
Also make sure that the level of castings in the working tray needs to be high enough for the worms to pass easily up to the next tray.
Can worms endure high temperatures? Worms can tolerate a temperature range between 10-30 degrees Celsius.
If temperatures get hotter than its tolerable levels, move the farm into a shady, cool area where it could regulate the moisture and humidity of the worm boxes.
In cold temperatures, make sure to cover the box with old garments or carpets, blankets and wool shavings to sustain the warm temperature.
It is also best advised to feed the worms at least a quarter more than it should, since more food digested by the worms allow for more heat being generated in their bodies.
So take heed of these ideas and you can be on your way to getting started on a worm farm with confidence.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Things to Know when Raising your Worms
It can be fun to maintain a worm farm and it is far better if you know the basic and important things to know about your wormery.
Here are some common questions that can help you make the most out of your worm farm.
With all the leftover food and kitchen scraps I feed my worms, how can I prevent ants from getting into the farm trays?
If a farm tray is too dry or acidic, ants will surely make their way into the farm and invade worm space, which could kill the worms.
If the tray is too dry, just make sure to add water to raise moisture levels and add some garden lime to neutralize acidity, especially where ants are gathering.
To prevent ants from getting into the system, try placing the legs of the system in a container of water or rub Vaseline around it.
Will flies be attracted to the worm farm and will they be of any harm to the worms? Occasionally, small vinegar flies get into the worm trays, however, they will not do any harm. Should there be the presence of larger flies, just make sure to slow down the pace of feeding, that way food does not stay long in the worm tray and decompose long enough to attract larger flies.
If I should see maggots in my worm farm, how can I get rid of them? Maggots proliferate in the presence of decomposing meat in the worm farm, thus, it is important to avoid meat in your worm farm.
To remove the maggots, place several pieces of bread soaked in milk on the surface, since it will attract maggots toward it and you may be able to remove them after a couple of days after you see the maggots transferring to the milk-soaked bread.
How do I get rid of foul smell omitting from the worm farm? Worm farms smell only if there is a lot of uneaten food built up in the worm farm.
If smelling should happen, stop feeding the worms temporarily and add some garden lime and stir the top tray lightly to allow aeration.
This will also allow the worms to move through it more easily and you can resume feeding when the smell dissipates.
Here are some other helpful hints you may need to know.
Always keep your worm farm damp but not wet, so water every so often or as required to maintain suitable conditions for the worms to propagate.
If the worm farm smells, the worms may be fed too much, or giving them too much water.
You may try to feed the worms small amounts at first and when they almost run out of food, gradually build it up to larger portions, but make sure to cut or shred food to smaller portions for easy digestion.
If ants and cockroaches invade your worm farm, keep a lid on the farm or cover it with something secure yet breathable.
If your farm sits on legs, you can place the legs inside a bowl or container of water to keep ants out.
If your worms do not breed you may need to keep the farm in a shadier or cooler area, preferably around 18-25 degrees centigrade or keep it moist but not too wet.
Lastly, acidic conditions can be caused by too much sugary food such as grains and fruites. You may try to neutralize the acidity by sprinkling wood ash, dolomite, or lime on the farm.
So make the most out of your wormery and be acquainted with the things you need to know about your worm farm.
Here are some common questions that can help you make the most out of your worm farm.
With all the leftover food and kitchen scraps I feed my worms, how can I prevent ants from getting into the farm trays?
If a farm tray is too dry or acidic, ants will surely make their way into the farm and invade worm space, which could kill the worms.
If the tray is too dry, just make sure to add water to raise moisture levels and add some garden lime to neutralize acidity, especially where ants are gathering.
To prevent ants from getting into the system, try placing the legs of the system in a container of water or rub Vaseline around it.
Will flies be attracted to the worm farm and will they be of any harm to the worms? Occasionally, small vinegar flies get into the worm trays, however, they will not do any harm. Should there be the presence of larger flies, just make sure to slow down the pace of feeding, that way food does not stay long in the worm tray and decompose long enough to attract larger flies.
If I should see maggots in my worm farm, how can I get rid of them? Maggots proliferate in the presence of decomposing meat in the worm farm, thus, it is important to avoid meat in your worm farm.
To remove the maggots, place several pieces of bread soaked in milk on the surface, since it will attract maggots toward it and you may be able to remove them after a couple of days after you see the maggots transferring to the milk-soaked bread.
How do I get rid of foul smell omitting from the worm farm? Worm farms smell only if there is a lot of uneaten food built up in the worm farm.
If smelling should happen, stop feeding the worms temporarily and add some garden lime and stir the top tray lightly to allow aeration.
This will also allow the worms to move through it more easily and you can resume feeding when the smell dissipates.
Here are some other helpful hints you may need to know.
Always keep your worm farm damp but not wet, so water every so often or as required to maintain suitable conditions for the worms to propagate.
If the worm farm smells, the worms may be fed too much, or giving them too much water.
You may try to feed the worms small amounts at first and when they almost run out of food, gradually build it up to larger portions, but make sure to cut or shred food to smaller portions for easy digestion.
If ants and cockroaches invade your worm farm, keep a lid on the farm or cover it with something secure yet breathable.
If your farm sits on legs, you can place the legs inside a bowl or container of water to keep ants out.
If your worms do not breed you may need to keep the farm in a shadier or cooler area, preferably around 18-25 degrees centigrade or keep it moist but not too wet.
Lastly, acidic conditions can be caused by too much sugary food such as grains and fruites. You may try to neutralize the acidity by sprinkling wood ash, dolomite, or lime on the farm.
So make the most out of your wormery and be acquainted with the things you need to know about your worm farm.
Monday, March 29, 2010
Worm Farming with Red Worms
Worm farming is gaining popularity. If you want to get into the business, you have to learn how to take care of red worms which happen to be the best producers of fertilizer for the soil.
To do that, you have to build your own worm bins. This consists of several boxes, shredded newspaper, and a strip of insect screen as well as the red worms. You can probably find the first two in your garage or shed, the third from the hardware store and the last in a nursery.
When you have all the materials, put a few holes in the top and bottom of the bins then place the shredded newspaper inside the containers to serve as the bedding. You can also use potting mix or both at the same time. Once the red worms are inside, cover the top with a lid because red worms do not like sunlight.
Unlike cats, dogs or fish you buy from a pet store, you don’t have to feed red worms right away. You can wait about 3 to 4 days before giving them food, and since you don’t know how much they can consume, add a small amount first, then gauge how much more should be added to their diet.
If there are big and small red worms, put some food along the edges as well as the center of the containers since the adult red worms prefer to stay toward the outside while the younger ones prefer to get food from the center.
The food that is given to red worms is much different then what you would find in a pet store. This is because they only eat things that will naturally compost. A few examples of these include coffee grounds, grass clippings, manure, rabbit pellets, vacuum dust and vegetable matter. Never give your red worms dairy products, meats and certain vegetables like onion.
Just like other household pets, red worms also need some water, so water them from time to time but make sure that it is not too soggy. Although they like water, too much could drown your little red wigglers.
Red worms are sold by the pound and one pound is approximately 1,000 red worms. That population will double in 2 to 3 months and while some say that they have a way of regulating their population, it wouldn’t hurt to transfer some to another container.
If there is no more space to relocate your red worms, you can try what other people have done and that is to sell red worms. After all, the waste or vermicast they produce is great for the soil so you can also help others save money by trying out this home made fertilizer instead of buying it from the store.
The other option to control the red worm population is to use them as fish bait. Although some people will argue that another variety of worm known as the European Night Crawler is better for catching fish, you will surely be able to catch a few with your homemade variety.
Raising red worms requires a lot of attention, so watch them regularly. Make sure there is a sufficient amount of food available and their bedding is just right and you can be on your way to have a successful wormery.
To do that, you have to build your own worm bins. This consists of several boxes, shredded newspaper, and a strip of insect screen as well as the red worms. You can probably find the first two in your garage or shed, the third from the hardware store and the last in a nursery.
When you have all the materials, put a few holes in the top and bottom of the bins then place the shredded newspaper inside the containers to serve as the bedding. You can also use potting mix or both at the same time. Once the red worms are inside, cover the top with a lid because red worms do not like sunlight.
Unlike cats, dogs or fish you buy from a pet store, you don’t have to feed red worms right away. You can wait about 3 to 4 days before giving them food, and since you don’t know how much they can consume, add a small amount first, then gauge how much more should be added to their diet.
If there are big and small red worms, put some food along the edges as well as the center of the containers since the adult red worms prefer to stay toward the outside while the younger ones prefer to get food from the center.
The food that is given to red worms is much different then what you would find in a pet store. This is because they only eat things that will naturally compost. A few examples of these include coffee grounds, grass clippings, manure, rabbit pellets, vacuum dust and vegetable matter. Never give your red worms dairy products, meats and certain vegetables like onion.
Just like other household pets, red worms also need some water, so water them from time to time but make sure that it is not too soggy. Although they like water, too much could drown your little red wigglers.
Red worms are sold by the pound and one pound is approximately 1,000 red worms. That population will double in 2 to 3 months and while some say that they have a way of regulating their population, it wouldn’t hurt to transfer some to another container.
If there is no more space to relocate your red worms, you can try what other people have done and that is to sell red worms. After all, the waste or vermicast they produce is great for the soil so you can also help others save money by trying out this home made fertilizer instead of buying it from the store.
The other option to control the red worm population is to use them as fish bait. Although some people will argue that another variety of worm known as the European Night Crawler is better for catching fish, you will surely be able to catch a few with your homemade variety.
Raising red worms requires a lot of attention, so watch them regularly. Make sure there is a sufficient amount of food available and their bedding is just right and you can be on your way to have a successful wormery.
Starting a worm farm with a kiddie pool?
Starting a worm farm with a kiddie pool?
I live in an area where you have to drive 22 miles in all directions to buy worms for fishing. So I decided to meet the demanding need of our small community by supplying them with fishing worms and make a little extra cash on the side. I have done the research and know the basics. But I have two kiddie pools and was wondering if one of them could be used for their home.
Best Answer - Chosen by Voters
Yes, kiddie pools would be an excellent area for worms. Put a few small drainage holes in and you have a nice worm farm. Just raise it up off the ground so if the worms can't crawl out of the drainage holes and into the ground.
I live in an area where you have to drive 22 miles in all directions to buy worms for fishing. So I decided to meet the demanding need of our small community by supplying them with fishing worms and make a little extra cash on the side. I have done the research and know the basics. But I have two kiddie pools and was wondering if one of them could be used for their home.
Best Answer - Chosen by Voters
Yes, kiddie pools would be an excellent area for worms. Put a few small drainage holes in and you have a nice worm farm. Just raise it up off the ground so if the worms can't crawl out of the drainage holes and into the ground.
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Learn all you need to know about Worm Farming
Here are two professional worm farmers with over 12 years experience to show you everything there is to know about worm composting in a concise step-by-step "how to" guide.
"The Business & Biology of Raising Earthworms" will teach you...
The five most commonly used composting worms.
Not all earthworms can be utilized for successful vermiculture. Here you can decide which breeding stock are most suited to your individual needs; whether you wish to take advantage of the worm by products such as compost, or are more interested in maintaining a wormery to have a year round supply of worms for live fishing bait.
A detailed look at the most commonly encountered pests and predators that can invade your worm bins, wrecking catastrophic havoc, and bringing your worm composting operation down on its knees.
You’ll discover how to prevent such invasions and exactly what to do if you’ve already been overrun by undesirable organisms like; ants, moles, flies, mites, centipedes and more...
Discover exactly what you can and can’t feed your worms & how to prepare their feed correctly.
Organic waste materials make for a wide selection of no-cost food, but some food types can poison your worms and sour your worm bin. You’ll learn exactly what you should be feeding your worms and what you need to avoid at all costs.
How you can turn your hobby into a second income!
There are over 40 different potential markets to sell your worms and worm byproducts to. You’ll learn about each of these markets, why the are in need of what YOU can supply them with (and are prepared to pay you excellent money for), and how to reach these markets using no cost and low cost marketing techniques...
"The Biology & Business Of Raising Earthworms" is the most comprehensive and up to date guide for productive and successful worm farming.
SAVE MONEY and avoid unnecessary disappointment when getting started with your new worm farming hobby today.
Click here to learn more about successful worm farming
